The article discusses the threats posed by climate change and overfishing to Vietnam’s traditional fish sauce, nuoc mam. While Bui Van Phong’s family sustains a four-generation business, environmental changes are impacting anchovy supplies critical for production. The global fish sauce market is expected to grow significantly, yet production challenges persist. Protecting this cultural heritage and species sustainability is imperative for continued success.
Upon the conclusion of the Vietnam War fifty years ago, Bui Van Phong opted to remain in his village, dedicating himself to the time-honored craft of fish sauce production, known as nuoc mam. This artisanal business, now managed by his son Bui Van Phu, is deeply woven into Vietnam’s cultural heritage, receiving national recognition as part of the country’s identity. “It isn’t just the quality of fish sauce. It is also the historical value,” remarked Phu, underscoring the traditional significance of the craft.
However, this treasured heritage is currently threatened by both mass-produced fish sauce and environmental challenges. Climate change and overfishing severely impact the anchovy supply, critical for producing nuoc mam. As ocean temperatures increase, oxygen depletion poses risks to marine ecosystems, particularly for anchovies, which may struggle to survive in future climates. Renato Salvatteci, a fisheries researcher, noted, “If we continue with this trend of deoxygenation, anchovies will not be OK with that. Every species has a limit.”
The adverse effects of warming oceans extend to marine life dynamics, potentially leading to smaller fish populations and rising fishing costs. Anchovies are particularly vital as they form the foundation of the food web for many commercially important species, while also being integral to producing fish meal for aquaculture. Overfishing exacerbates the situation, with contentious fisheries management in the South China Sea, which contributes to approximately 12% of global fish catch.
Despite efforts to sustain fish populations, the 2021 University of British Columbia assessment warned that even under improved conditions, the South China Sea could still lose over 20% of its fish stocks. In extreme scenarios with significant temperature rises, projections suggest a substantial decline in fish availability, leading to dire ecological and economic consequences.
Bui Van Phu balances teaching with his family’s fish sauce operations, which requires precise methods for fermentation and sourcing quality anchovies. Typically, anchovies are harvested between January and March, undergoing fermentation for up to 18 months. Customization in recipes and fermentation times contribute to the unique flavors of each artisan batch, compelling many families to adhere to traditional practices in the face of market pressures due to rising anchovy prices.
The potential impact extends beyond individual producers as Vietnam anticipates taking a larger share of the global fish sauce market, which is expected to rise from $18.5 billion in 2023 to almost $29 billion by 2032. Striving to align with international food safety standards, Vietnam aims to solidify its position as a leading fish sauce exporter, promoting its rich cultural heritage to a global audience.
Fish sauce plays a pivotal role in the culinary landscape of Vietnam, often evoking nostalgia for expatriates and serving as an essential flavor base in traditional dishes. As Bui Van Phu reflects on the craft, he expresses a commitment to passing down family traditions. However, he recognizes that the continuation of this cultural legacy rests on the sustainability of anchovy stocks. “Fish sauce to me is not just a condiment for cooking. But it is our craft, our culture, our tradition that need to be preserved, safeguarded and inherited,” he articulated, emphasizing the importance of protection against contemporary challenges.
The intersection of climate change and overfishing poses a significant threat to Vietnam’s traditional fish sauce production, a vital component of the nation’s culinary heritage. As environmental conditions impact anchovy populations, artisanal practices are at risk, potentially undermining both local economies and cultural identity. The commitment of producers like Bui Van Phu highlights the urgency of preserving these traditions while navigating the growing global demand for fish sauce. A sustainable approach is essential to ensure the future viability of this culturally significant craft.
Original Source: www.usnews.com
